Televisions are a central feature of most households, and many homes have more than one. But gone are the days of simply choosing the biggest set you could afford or finding one that would fit in the alcove. Now there’s an array of technologies to choose from and, with the move to digital broadcasting, you need to make sure your new purchases are future-proof too.

New TVs cost money, and some cost a lot, so it’s worth making sure you spend wisely. To make it easier, we answer the questions you should ask yourself before you buy:.

Content

What's my budget? Where am I going to put my new TV? What am I going to watch on my new TV? What else might I want to do with it?

What else should I care about? How do I really know what I’m getting?

Click on any of these links to get some valuable advice, and tips on how you can use PriceRunner to find the perfect TV.

Alternatively, go straight to any of these to read more:

CTR TVs Flat-screen TVs LCD TVs Back Projection TVs Screen Formats (widescreen or 4:3) HD TV Response time Connectors

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What's my budget?

Before you start to think about what size and type of TV you want, work out how much you are prepared to pay for it. With so many tempting choices, it's very easy to spend much more than you mean to, so fix your budget beforehand.

Then work out everything that you will need to watch what you want, where you want. The more you want to do with your TV and the more elaborate the system you are considering, the less likely you are to get everything you need straight out of the box. In fact, some TVs may be unusable unless you buy certain extras such as a stand or cables, so check exactly what you will get before you buy and ask the vendor what else you will need.

Work out roughly how much of your budget will be eaten up by any extras (including speakers) and then see what you have left for the TV itself. You may need to juggle the figures around to get the right balance of TV set and accessories.

Finally, remember that larger TVs use more power, and some technologies use more energy than others, so you will be paying more to run them.

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Where am I going to put my new TV?

You may have the budget for a huge flat-screen TV, but if it’s going in the corner of a small bedroom, you’ll be wasting your money. Several factors about where the TV is going should determine what kind will best match your needs:

• Do I want it mounted on a wall or on a stand?
• How far away from the set will I be when I'm watching it?
• What angle will I watch it from?
• What's the ambient lighting like?

To understand why these will affect what you buy, you need to know more about the different technologies used to build TVs.

There are three main types of television set: the traditional cathode ray tube (CRT) set, flat-screen TVs and back-projection models. The physical characteristics of each vary considerably and not all will be suitable for what you want.

Cathode ray tube (CRT) TVs

CRT TVs are the ‘traditional’ televisions that have been around for years, where the picture is formed on the wide end of a glass cathode ray tube. This design has an inherent top-end size limit because of the length of tube needed to form the picture, and therefore the sheer weight of the tube in larger models. There are now some thinner tubes on the market though, so it’s worth comparing the overall dimensions of CRT models of the same screen size.

Despite the size issues, the technology is still very much alive, and high-end CRTs can offer great-looking pictures for not a lot of money. The quality and depth of black and dark colours is very good, and they can be viewed from any angle, especially models with new, flatter screens that reduce the problems of reflected ambient light.

Always check the reviews for any model you are considering buying, as CRT TVs can suffer from more geometry errors than flat-screen TVs, causing bends in straight vertical and horizontal lines. Also, if you want to watch programmes from high-definition television (HDTV) receivers or progressive scan DVD players, you need to make sure your CRT TV can accept and display them (see HDTV and Connectors).

Flat-screen TVs

Flat-screen TVs use one of two technologies - LCD or plasma - to form pictures on a device that is only a few inches thick. Their thin size means most can be hung on a wall or, when on a stand, take up much less room than a CRT TV. They can also be built to give bigger pictures than the largest standard CRT set, particularly the plasma models.

Flat-screen models can be prone to ghosting, smearing and judder when displaying standard pictures rather than high definition ones, so reading reviews is a must (just make sure the reviewer has been watching the same kind of images as you will be). You may also have to spend a little time setting up your TV to get the pictures how you like them, as they have extra settings you won’t find on CRT models.

LCD TVs

LCD TVs use the same technology as flat-screen LCD computer monitors. They are available in a wide range of sizes, from very small portable devices up to models that are much larger than the biggest CRT, although at the top end the prices can be expensive.

They offer high resolution images but, when it comes to colours, LCD TVs don’t show a true black because of the way that LCD technology works, and colour saturation isn’t always as good as plasma screens. And if you watch an LCD TV from an angle instead of from directly in front (this is called the ‘viewing angle’), the brightness and colours of the image can again be poor compared to plasma models.

All this is relative, though: LCD screens are improving all the time and the performance of individual LCDs can vary a lot, so you should read the reviews of any model that otherwise meets your needs.

Plasma TVs

Plasma TVs have thousands of gas cells emitting ultraviolet light which then strike red, green and blue posts on the screen, which in turn glow to build a picture. They offer wide viewing angles and great colour quality. So even though they used to be comparatively pricey, they have a reputation as being the best solution for large home cinema solutions.

On the downside, plasma screens generally have lower resolutions than similar sized LCDs. They also have a reputation of suffering from ‘burn-in’, which is when a static image gets etched permanently onto the screen. This can happen when part of the image is displayed in the same place on the screen for a long time (for example the black bars you get at the top or side of a TV show that is broadcast in a different format from the TV screen). This may not be an issue if you are careful for the first 100 or so hours that you use your new TV, and many manufacturers have been addressing this by adding special features, such as screensavers, or settings to treat the problem.

Plasma TVs also tend to use more power than LCD screens, so be careful not to waste energy unnecessarily when you use one.

As with LCD TVs, you should check the reviews of any models you are interested in, as all these features and potential problems can vary widely between models.

Back-projection TVs

If you want a very large screen then a back-projection (also known as rear-projection) TV is a cost-effective alternative to plasma. These use either CRT technology or one of a number of microdisplay technologies to beam a picture onto a mirror or through an LCD screen in the back of the TV, which is then projected onto a display at the front.

The CRT models can offer great images with fantastic colours, but they may have narrower viewing angles than standard CRT TVs, and need careful setup and maintenance.

Microdisplay TVs are based on one or more microchips containing thousands or millions of pixels. They are lighter, shorter and thinner than CRT models. In general, they can be bright and display digital images very well. However, they can take a while to warm up, and you may need to replace the lamp or lamp assembly occasionally (and these aren’t cheap).

Each specific microdisplay technology has its own strengths and weaknesses. For example, some are prone to showing a rainbow effect on parts of certain images (although not every viewer will notice these) and others are not so good at displaying true blacks. Yet others don’t display large areas of white very well, and on some you can see the spaces between the pixels if you sit close to the screen. But manufacturers work hard to minimise or eliminate these effects, so yet again, reviews are your best guide to how well any particular model will perform.

Which technology where?

Although there is no definitive answer as to which technology you should choose for every place you might use a TV, there are some issues you can consider.

The viewing distance is less dependent on the technology. Instead it depends on the format (widescreen or traditional 4:3 – see Screen format below) and resolution of image you are viewing. If you are mainly going to watch standard resolution and format images, then you should be sitting at a distance of three to six times the width of the screen. However, if you are going to watch widescreen, high resolution DVD and HDTV, you can sit much closer to immerse yourself in the show, so you can be just one and a half times the screen’s diagonal measurement away.

So if you want a TV for your bedroom where you may be sitting from 4 to 8 feet away, your choice may be anything from a 20-inch standard format TV right up to a 30- or 34-inch widescreen TV if you’re going to watch high-resolution DVDs. In a large living room you might want a 36- or 40-inch TV to watch daytime TV shown in standard 4:3 format, or something as big as a huge 60- or 65-inch widescreen TV if you are planning ahead for HDTV.

Remember that TV screen sizes are measured across the diagonal, from one corner to the opposite one.

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What am I going to watch on my new TV?

There’s a wide variety of options when it comes to relaxing in front of your new TV, including analogue (sometimes known as terrestrial), digital (via cable or satellite), DVDs and High definition TV (HDTV). What you want to watch will affect your choice of TV for a number of reasons.

Screen formats (aspect ratio)

For a long time there was a mismatch between television formats and cinema. Televisions had screens where the ratio of the top and bottom to the sides was four to three (4:3), and that was the way the TV programmes were filmed and broadcast. Cinemas, on the other hand, showed films that were much wider than they were tall, with an equivalent ratio of 16 to nine (16:9, or widescreen). Now, some digital television channels are broadcast in the 16:9 format and, of course, DVDs of films are widescreen.

Most televisions have a number of options to allow you to accommodate the different formats, no matter what the ratio of your actual screen. So if you buy a 4:3 TV, you can watch widescreen films by having black bars on the screen above and below the picture (many new TVs can detect this automatically and display the picture appropriately, or you can choose the widescreen or an alternative setting yourself). Conversely, you can see the whole of a 4:3 image on a widescreen TV by having black bars down the side of the screen, rather than watching short, wide athletes running around.

What you need to do is decide what kind of thing you will mainly be watching, and take this into account when choosing the format of your new TV, bearing in mind that widescreen TVs generally cost more per square inch.

Resolution

The resolution of a digital TV is a way of describing the number of pixels on the screen, and is written as the number of pixels across its width (number of columns) times the number down the side (number of rows). This is its ‘native resolution’, and the higher the figures, the more detail you will see; for example, a 1368x768 TV will show more detail than a 960x540 set. You must then consider this in terms of the overall screen size and the resolution of the signal being used to send the image.

Standard TV

Standard analogue television signals in the UK have a resolution of 625 (576 visible) horizontal lines. The lines are ‘interlaced’, which means that the odd numbered rows are created first and then the even numbered rows – it’s just done so fast that you can’t really see it happening from directly in front of a TV, though you may notice flickering if you stand to one side.

High definition TV (HDTV)

High definition TV, on the other hand, creates images using either 720 or 1080 lines of information. The 720-line format creates all the lines at once using what is known as progressive scan technology (written as 720p) and has a resolution of 1280x720. Progressive scanning gives a very smooth image which is good for fast-moving footage. The 1080 version is usually interlaced (so is written as 1080i) and has an overall resolution of 1920x1080. There is a progressive scan 1080 specification (1080p) but it’s very rare indeed.

There aren’t a lot of true HDTV programmes broadcast yet, but this will increase. However, in many cases even ordinary TV programmes can look better on an HDTV set.

You can’t view HD programmes at all on an analogue TV. You can view them on standard digital sets that are ‘HDTV compatible’, but not at their true resolution. Instead, you can only view HDTV programmes properly on an ‘HD ready’ model. This is a label awarded by the European Association for Information Systems (EICTA) that means the TV should:

• Have a minimum screen resolution of 720 lines in wide aspect ratio
• Have the right sockets to receive and display an HD picture (analogue YPbPr, and either digital HDMI or DVI that supports HDCP copy protection)
• Be able to accept both 720p and 1080i HD video formats

Most new flat-panel TVs are HD ready, but always check the spec before you buy.

Remember: an HD ready TV may have a lower native resolution than the HD specs: for example, it may have a resolution of 1024x720 (compared to the 720p specification of 1280x720 and the 1080i specification which is 1920x1080). Such TVs won’t be able to resolve every detail from the HD signal, but the images will still look much better than regular TV.

HD ready TVs can also produce great images when used with a progressive scan DVD player, HD games consoles, HD camcorders and even a PC that is able to download HD files from the Internet.

Alternatives

Standard TVs update or refresh the picture 50 times a second, which is equivalent to a refresh rate of 50Hz. If you tend to notice flickering on a standard TV, look for a TV with a higher refresh rate instead, but be warned that the processing needed to offer this may affect picture quality during fast action scenes.

Alternatively you can look for a TV offering progressive scan display, where the whole picture is created in one sweep. You’ll need this to make the most of some DVD players and games consoles. Related to this, EDTV has just 480 lines but is better than standard TV as it uses progressive scan (480p). Again you need a compatible TV.

Response Time

The response time indicates the lag between the signal being sent to the TV and the display changing to show the correct image. CRT and plasma displays have always had fast enough response times due to their technologies, whereas LCD response times were much slower and so you should take note of this figure if you want an LCD set.

You should check whether the response time quoted refers to changes between black and white, or what’s called the ‘grey-to-grey’ response time. Without explaining in depth, the latter more truly reflects typical image changes on a TV, so can be more indicative of a TV’s performance. Always compare like with like if you can.

Modes

Some televisions offer special modes that let you change the contrast, brightness and other settings all in one go to match the type of programme or other output that you are viewing (for example, or sports or gaming).

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What else might I want to do with it?

Text

You can access digital text services on an integrated TV or through a set-top box. Often you can watch TV in a small box in the corner of the screen at the same time.

Still Images

You can display still images on your TV if you have the right connections to link to your digital camera (usually Scart or phono) or if the TV has a memory card slot.

External Devices

If you want to hook up any external devices to your new TV, such as DVD players, VCRs, games devices or camcorders, you need to make sure that your TV can display the images they produce and that you have the right connectors, and enough of them. This means checking the specifications of the TV and all the other equipment.

Connectors

Make sure that your TV has the right connectors for all the equipment that you want to attach to it, and enough of them to save you needlessly swapping cables around. Look for easy access to any sockets where you will want to disconnect leads, such as those for a video camera. These are the ones you may come across:

Socket	Use	How to Spot one
RF input	To attach an aerial or cable TV. Some TVs have two to let you attach both.
Scart	Connections for equipment such as DVD players and VCRs. If possible look for Scarts that support RGB signals (splitting the video signal into red, green and blue) for better pictures.
Composite video	Common, low-quality video connection (480i max resolution): for AV equipment and if you don’t have enough Scart sockets.
S-video	Better quality video connection (480i max resolution but separate wires for luminance and chrominance) - not as good as Scart RGB: used for AV equipment.
Component video (RCA, YPbPr)	High quality video input: 480i max resolution but with three sockets for different colour signals. Doesn’t carry the widescreen switching signal. (See HDTV)
HDMI	High definition digital video and audio input, for HD set-top boxes and DVD players. (See HDTV)
DVI	Digital video input for HD video only, not audio. Can be used to connect a PC. (See HDTV)
VGA (RGB video)	Lets you plug your PC into your TV, turning the TV into a monitor. May also be used to connect other equipment.
IEEE1394 (Firewire)	Digital video and audio connector. Can be used with compatible devices including digital cameras and camcorders.
Phono	Lets you connect your TV to external speakers.
Line Level RCA	Common connection for stereo audio with white (left) and red (right) inputs.
Coaxial RCA	Output socket, particularly for digital audio. Must match the input on your sound system.
Headphone	Analogue output for headphones, not speakers. May be standard or mini jack type.
Optical	Output socket for digital audio. Must match the input on your sound system.

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What About Sound Quality?

Sound quality varies widely across TVs, and even ones with the best images may not offer the best surround sound from their own speakers, so you may need to budget for external ones instead.

Mono

This is rare but may be found on smaller TVs, even if they have two speakers.

Stereo

This is when there are two separate sound channels to give a more realistic sound, although it doesn’t mean that you will get hi-fi quality. Nicam stereo is one particular stereo system.

Virtual Surround

This is a type of surround sound system using two or three speakers: it is better than stereo but isn’t as good as true surround sound.

Dolby

There are several different versions of Dolby sound systems that you may come across, including Dolby Pro Logic, Dolby Surround and Dolby Digital. These vary in terms of the number of channels and therefore sound quality. Check the Dolby website for more information.

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What else should I care about?

Contrast

Contrast is a measure of the relationship between the brightest and the darkest possible outputs of a TV. The higher the contrast (expressed as a ratio compared to one), the clearer the picture. So a contrast of 1000:1 is better than 500:1.

Brightness

The brighter the picture, the easier it is to see it when the ambient light is high (for example in daylight). This is measured in candela (cd).

Picture-in-picture

This feature lets you watch a second image in a corner of the screen, so you can monitor another broadcast channel. Similarly, some models allow you to split the screen vertically and watch two pictures side-by-side (‘picture-by-picture’). You should check what limits there are on this in terms of what equipment is needed to allow it to work.

Analogue Bows Out

Depending on where you live, you have up to 2012 to carry on watching analogue television broadcasts, though in some areas it will start to be switched off from 2008. There are only five television stations broadcast in analogue and you’ll need an aerial to receive them. While this helps if you want to watch one programme while recording another via cable or satellite, now might be the time to find an alternative solution to this issue.

Stands and wall-mounting kits

These aren’t always included, so make sure you budget for what you need. Wall-mounting kits for large screens can be expensive as they need to be fixed securely to the wall. (And if you are buying a large TV, make sure the wall is suitable for mounting it, especially if it is a plasma as these weigh more than LCDs.)

Integrated Features

You can buy TVs with integrated tuners (for watching Freeview channels), DVD players or VCR players. This can save you money and the effort of connecting the extra kit, but if the integrated component fails, the whole TV has to be returned to be fixed.

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How Do I really Know What I'm Getting?

Two televisions with the same specifications aren’t going to be exactly alike. Manufacturers use different ways of addressing any inherent technology problems, and boosting the good points. So try to read reviews of any models you are interested in and see if you can view them in a store somewhere too (even if you are planning to buy online).

Make sure, though, that what you are looking at matches the way you will actually use the TV yourself. View it from various angles and ask to play with the contrast and brightness (these may be set to maximum, giving you no room to improve them to match your home environment). And ask to watch standard television programmes or an ordinary DVD, so that you can assess how well the TV outputs this as well as the HDTV or HD DVD signals they are probably showing to impress you in the store.

This buying guide was last updated on 16 April 2008